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Fabric Terms


 

Here is a short list of fabric terms.

 

alpaca    blend    calico    cloth    cloth yard    cotton    flax    lamb's wool    linen     melton wool       merino wool    mohair    pill    rayon    sateen cotton    satin     thread count    ticking    ticking cotton    twill    twill weave    wool



Alpaca

True alpaca is a hair fiber form the Alpaca animal, a member of the Ilama family of the South American Andes Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon. Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. Has much luster and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used it is inclined to be boardy. It is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibers or imitated by other fibers - e.g. orlon.

Blend

A term applied to a yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one fiber. In blended yarns, two or more different types of staple fibers are twisted or spun together to form the yarn. Examples of a typical blended yarn or fabric is polyester/cotton.

Calico

Cotton cloth imported from India; a plain white cotton fabric that is heavier than muslin; any of various cheap cotton fabrics with figured patterns. Originated in Calcutta, India, and is one of the oldest cottons. Rather coarse and light in weight. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing. It is not always fast in color. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Similar to percale.

Cloth

The word cloth is sometimes used as a generic term for "fabric". The word cloth also considered a unit of length for measuring cloth. When the word "cloth" is used alone without any qualifiers, it usually refers to an all woolen fabric in the 19th Century..

Cloth yard

A yard esp. for measuring cloth; specific: a unit of 37 inches equal to the Scottish ell and used also as a length for arrows

Cotton

A plant of the Genus Gossypium, which yields fiber for the manufacture of durable and permanent fine papers and cellulose derivatives. The boll of the cotton plant is a capsule that bursts open when ripe, allowing the seed and attached lint (hairs) to be easily picked. The cotton fiber is removed from the seed by the ginning process. See also Cotton Linters Fiber from the seed pod of the cotton plant, the use of cotton dates back more than 5,000 years. Quality depends on the length of the fiber, longer being better, and fiber lengths vary from less than one-half inch to more than two inches.
* American Upland Cotton: Representing the bulk of the world crop, American Upland fiber runs between 3/4" and 1 1/4" .
* Egyptian Cotton : Long staple variety from Egypt with fiber length averaging 1 3/8".
* Pima Cotton: an excellent long staple variety grown in Arizona , New Mexico, Texas and California. It is a cross between Sea Island Cotton and Egyptian Cotton with fiber length averaging 1 1/2". The "SuPima" certification mark is used only when the product is made entirely from Southwestern extra-long staple cotton grown by members of the SuPima Association of America.
* Sea Island Cotton : The very finest and most expensive cotton, in very limited supply, with a fiber length greater than 1 1/2".

Flax

Often considered the oldest fiber used in the Western world. Remnants of flax fabric (linen) have been found in excavations at the historic lake regions of Switzerland, which date back to about 10,000 B.C. Although the archaeologists dispute the origins of flax , some believe that it came from the region of Tepe Sabz, Iran (Mesopotamia), ca. 5500 - 5000 B.C. By 4,000 B.C. the Egyptians were cultivating and processing flax and ancient wall carvings show laborers harvesting flax. Examples have been found that were spun so fine that more than 360 threads joined together to form one warp thread. The rather incredible characteristics and properties of flax are once again being recognized. Although linen has been primarily considered as a fashion fabric in modern times, the industry and the markets are beginning to understand its potential as a performance fiber, delivering high strength and durability, abrasion resistance and high moisture regain, as well as a luxurious hand and appearance.

Lamb's wool

The first clip of wool sheered from lambs up to eight months old. The wool is soft, slippery and resilient. It is used in fine grade woolen fabrics.

Linen

One of the oldest natural fibers used for clothing. It pre-dates the Egyptians. Made from flax fibers, it is noted for its strength, coolness and luster. Also used as a name of fabric woven with linen fibers in a plain weave. Natural linen has variety in the coloration and size of the fibers, producing a slightly uneven surface. Can also refer to a similar fabric produced from man-made fibers to mimic the natural version.

Melton wool

Sometimes combined with synthetics. Twill or satin weave. Very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It wears very well. Wind resistant. Originated in Melton, Mowbray, England.  It was first made as a hunting cloth. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat. Mostly used for men in over coating, uniform cloth of all kinds (army, navy, etc., as well as polie and firemen), pea jackets, regal liverly. Used for heavy outer sports garments and coats for women.

Merino wool

Soft and luxurious, similar to cashmere, often considered the finest wool.

Mohair

From the angora goat. Some has cotton warp and mohair filling (sometimes called brilliantine). Imitation mohair made from wool or a blend. Angora goat is one of the oldest animals known to man. It is 2 1/2 times as strong as wool. Goats are raised in S.Africa, Western Asia, turkey, and neighboring countries. Some are in the U.S.A. Fabric is smooth, glossy, and wiry. Has long wavy hair. Also made in a pile fabric of cut and uncut loops similar to frieze with a cotton and wool back and mohair pattern. - Similar to alpaca.

Natural Fabrics

Cotton, linen, silk, wool. Made from both animal and plant fibers.


Pill

A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a fabric, as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing on the surface of the fabric.

Rayon (viscose)

A fabric made from rayon, namely any of a group of smooth textile fibers made from regenerated cellulose by extrusion through minute holes. The first of the man-made fibers, it was developed as a substitute for silk. Woven, it has a soft hand and very good drapeability.

Sateen Cotton

Lustrous and smooth with the sheen in a filling direction. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen. Some are only calendared to produce the sheen but this disappears with washing and is not considered genuine sateen.

Satin

A type of weave made from silk or other fabrics. Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. The luster is produced by running it between hot cylinders. Made in many colors, weights, varieties, qualities, and degrees of stiffness. A low grade silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper cloths.

Thread count

Measured by adding the number of warp ends per inch and filling picks per inch in the woven fabric. The higher the number, the more dense the yarns are packed together, but unfortunately thread count has come to be the major determinant of quality in the U.S. customer's eyes. The quality of the cotton and the finishing process after weaving can often be more important to the soft hand and durability of a fabric than a high thread count.

Ticking

A strong linen or cotton fabric used in upholstering and as a covering for a mattress or pillow.

Ticking cotton

Usually twill (L2/1 or L3/1), some jacquard, satin, and dobby. Very tightly woven with more warp than filling yarns. Very sturdy and strong, smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and colored stripes, but some patterned (floral). Can be made water-repellent, germ resistant, and feather-proof. "Bohemian ticking" has a plain weave, a very high texture, and is featherproof. Lighter weight than regular ticking. Patterned with narrow colored striped on a white background or may have a chambray effect by using a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red filling.

Twill

A fabric with a twill weave, namely a textile weave in which the filling threads pass over one and under two or more warp threads to give an appearance of diagonal lines.

Twill weave

Similar to a satin weave in the sense that the loom is floating the warp or weft yarns over yarns of the opposite direction, but with a twill the yarn is only passing over two of the opposite yarns. A twill is distinctive by the diagonal lines that appear in the fabric. A twill weave, like a satin weave, usually results in a softer fabric than a plain weave. It is superior for a feather pillow ticking because of its strength.

Wool

A woven fabric of wool, namely the soft wavy or curly hypertrophied undercoat of various hairy mammals and especially the sheep made of a matrix of keratin fibers and covered with minute scales. A garment made of wool. The term 'wool' refers to the fibers from the fleece of lambs, sheep, Cashmere goats, Angora goats, camels, llamas, alpacas, and vicunas. Wool from sheep is the most common, lamb's wool is shorn from sheep less than eight months old, and Merino wool is from a specific breed that yields the finest and softest sheep wool.

 

Reference: Terms and Definitions by Chris Daley of  C.J. Daley Historical Reproductions

 

 

 

 

 

 

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